Boston Terrier Agility

dog adoption costs
Before you decide to bring a dog home, it is absolutely essential that you give some thought to the costs that you will be incurring in the process. It’s not the purchase alone, though even that is likely to be expensive in the case of some superior breeds of dogs, but also the cost of the equipments you will have to buy to make your home habitable for your pet. Then there are the visits to the vet, which have to be regularly made, and the expensive vaccinations, which the puppy has to be given. So, all in all, you will have to make pretty sure that your wallet can take the beating before you bring your doggy home.

What then, are the costs, and how much are they? Let’s start at the beginning. You have to buy the dog unless you are lucky enough to have it presented to you by a friend or a family member and the cost of this initial purchase can vary very widely. The variance will firstly depend on the type of dog you are buying. A purebred “companion only� puppy usually starts from around $800 but can go up to astronomical amounts for rare or exotic breeds. If you prefer to adopt a non-purebred variety from a shelter, it will cost you from around $150 to $300.

Costs also differ in different geographic locations so it is difficult for us to tell you of one fixed sum that you will have to pay for any given variety of dog. Visit the sources in your locality from where people normally buy dogs and check on the prices. And this includes the internet. After some queries on your part, you will be able to come to a fix on what your desired dog costs.

Now that you’ve got your dog, it’s time to look at the other costs you will have to start to incur. Let’s start with the one - time costs.

One Time Costs Average Cost
Fence $300 - $1500
Bowls $25
Collar $6
Training Collar $10
Leash $12
Bed $40
Crate $100
Brush/Grooming tools $20
Shampoo/ Coat care $15
Neuter/ Spay ( Based on weight ) $300
Microchip $50



Then there are the annual costs, which you have to be prepared for. I enumerate them below:

Vaccinations $185
Heartworm Test $35
Heartworm Preventive $65
Flea/Tick Preventive $120
Food $480
Toys/Treats $45
Tag $5

And then there are other costs:

Boarding â€" per day ( with 2 playtimes ) $25
Grooming â€" per time $50
Training classes ( Per 6-8 classes ) $100
Individual training ( Per session ) $100



And remember, this list is for grown up dogs and not puppies. If it’s a puppy you are adopting, the costs increase. There’s a check up, a series of 4 sets of vaccines, worming, heartworm tests, all of which will cost you close to $300. Then there is puppy food, which will set you back around $450 and toys/treats, which will cost approximately $65.

So, as you will have counted up from the figures given above, in the first year, you will be spending approximately $1500 to $2500 over and above the cost of buying your dog. After the first year, you will spend less per year â€" about $1000. Smaller dogs cost a bit less and larger dogs cost more.

Apart from all this, your dog will have lifelong healthcare needs. There will be shots and medicines you will be administering as preventive care and there will almost certainly be unexpected accidents, injuries or illnesses, however well you look after your dog.

It is therefore utterly essential that you objectively evaluate your budget and come to a decision as to whether you can really afford a dog. He will look to you for your support in all things and you owe it to him to give him, not only your love, but proper care, food and medical attention. These don’t come free â€" so ask yourself whether you can afford to get that dog you always wanted. If you realize that you can’t, it’s best to do without, both for your sake and his.

Anybody is free to use the article in their website as long as an acknowledgement is given Nancy Richards' and a link to the site www.traindogsandpuppies.com

Finding the Right Dog for Your Life
Let's face it. While there is a good bit of info about choosing a dog on the internet, most of it is written by people trying to SELL you a dog. So let's start with, I'm NOT trying to sell you a dog. This series of posts are intended for informational purposes only. So let's get started. Things to Consider: For the purpose of these discussions I will be examining the world of pure bred dogs. While there are many wonderful mixed breed dogs out there waiting to be adopted, I'm going to be teaching you what I know about the pure bred dog. In a future article, I will also discuss the individual dog and how to assess temperament. That discussion will also apply to the mixed breed dog. 1) Consider your life style. Are you a couch potato? Or a marathon runner? Looking for a dog to work your cattle or share your popcorn? The answer to these questions will have a HUGE effect on the type of dog you are looking for. 2) Consider your preferences. Look at a lot of pictures of various breeds of dogs. Make a list of the ones you find attractive. Then research the function/intelligence level/basic temperament of these breeds. 3) Smarter isn't always better. A few years ago a research psychologist published a great book about dog intelligence. He rank ordered many dog breeds into 70 rankings. The Border Collie landed on the top as the smartest dog. A lot of people equated smarter with better, ran out and bought a B.C. only to realize they had made a big mistake. Border Collies are very needy in terms of exercise of both the mind and the body. Without plenty of either, their intelligence allows them to find all sorts of trouble to get into. Meanwhile, I was living in an apartment, going to graduate school. I bought a little Lhasa Apso. My little darling was ranked #68 of 70. She was not the sharpest knife in the drawer. But she WAS a wonderful companion for me at the time. It didn't take much to keep her mind occupied. She did require a lot of grooming, but that was always a welcome break from studying for me. So we were a good match. And that is much more important than her intelligence level. 4) Pay close attention to what the breed was originally intended to do. It may have been over 100 years since the Lhasa Apso was used to guard Tibetan palaces, but trust me, they still bark at strange noises. If you don't like a dog that barks, make sure you don't get one of the guarding/hunting breeds. Overall All Breed Information The following Breed Descriptions are based on the breeds of dogs accepted by the AKC. This is not an endorsement of the AKC nor am I interested in comments in favor of or bashing this organization. It is what it is and for my discussion it is a good place to start. Start here, and do further research on the groups or breeds that interest you. The American Kennel Club divides dog breeds into the following groups: Sporting Breeds, Hound Breeds, Working Breeds, Terrier Breeds, Toy Breeds, Non-Sporting Breeds, and Herding Breeds. I will first make some very general comments about each of these groups. Please note I am painting with a wide brush here. There are of course breed variations within each group and individual variations within each breed. This is just a place to start. Sporting Breeds: These are breeds of dogs that were originally used for flushing up and or retrieving game. These are for the most part, your bird dogs. Most of these breeds are very active. Many are very bright. Most are very trainable, but not all of them. There is a good bit of variation in breed standards in this group so do your research. For example, in this group is the Golden Retriever (generally considered to be very bright) and the Irish Setter (generally considered to be not so bright). Hound Breeds: These are breeds of dogs that were originally intended for hunting. They are mostly divided between sight hounds and scent hounds. In general sight hounds are more active than your scent hounds, but there are exceptions to this. In general, most of these breeds enjoy a good bark. They love to hunt and want to let the world know where they are hunting. They tend to be sweet natured dogs (if you aren't a rabbit) but many can also be quite stubborn. Working Breeds: These dogs were bred to work. What that work entails varies greatly from breed to breed. In general, these are your personal and herd protection dogs. Some were rescue dogs from antiquity. Because their breed functions varies greatly, so do their breeds temperaments. In general, these are bright athlete dogs that are very active and can be very strong-willed. Pick out one of these dogs for your family with great care. Terrier Breeds. These dogs were bred to seek and destroy vermin. Sometimes the vermin they were seeking and destroying were MUCH bigger than the terrier. What that means is that in general these are very active and tenacious little dogs that can be quite a handful. Oh, but aren't they cute??? Toy Breeds: These are little dogs that were bred as companion animals, usually for royalty. They are almost always adorably cute and sweet. Toys can be a bit quirky and a bit slow to learn important lessons like potty training. But they were bred to make your heart melt every time you look at them and they do. Non-Sporting Breeds: This is a "catch all" category for dogs that didn't really fit anywhere else. The breeds in this category vary greatly. You will have to research the specific breed here. Herding Breeds. These dogs were uhm...bred to herd livestock. Yup. In general, these dogs are very bright, very active and NEED a JOB. Throw one of these into your backyard for hours on end a lone and you WILL be SORRY. Consider carefully what job you have for one of these guys before you bring it home. I hope that will help you get started on your journey to the perfect dog for your life.

Lisa Patterson has been involved with dogs and dog training all her life. She has a Masters degree in behavioral sciences and many years of experience developing behavior plans for people and for dogs. She has put her knowledge of behavior modification into practice in her work with children as well as with dogs. <br> Lisa has been involved in competitive obedience and agility training for over ten years and is one of the founding members of Waco Agility Group. Lisa Patterson<br> Companion Dog Training<br> 254-752-3551<br> <a href="http://www.companiondogtrainingwaco.com">Companion Dog Training</a>

Dog Hygiene Practises Bathing
Dog Hygiene Practises Bathing Parasitic shampoo is used on animals with fleas, ticks and lice and can be purchased from the vets or pet shops, the alternative shampoo is medicated shampoo and this is for specific skin conditions, and you can easily get it from a vet whom has prescribed it. Medicated shampoo needs to be left in the fur for a period of time then washed out, where as parasitic shampoo needs massaging deeply into the animals fur and then rinsed out and always insure you read the instructions on the container. The Water Temperature for bathing a dog should be of a medium heat. You should test the water temperature by putting your hand within the water. If the water is too hot or too cold it’s wrong for the dog. Once you have cleaned the dog you will need to dry them there are three methods that can be used, blast drying, you use a blast dryer to get off excess water, making sure you don’t blast dry down the ears. Cage drying, you place the animal in a cage on a towel and place a standing dryer over it. And also stand drying in which you place the animal on a table with a towel underneath it, and you use either a stand dryer or a hand held dyer to dry the dog. Written by http://www.diyconservatories-and-windows.co.uk/

DIY Conservatories http://www.diyconservatories-and-windows.co.uk/

Submissive urination in cocker spaniel
Why and When do Cocker Spaniels Urinate? Many Cocker Spaniels have a tendency to urinate (pee) when excited or scared, which can happen to other breeds as well, particularly when they are puppies. Excitement urination happens when infant muscles in puppies cannot hold urine if the puppy gets excited, and it pees. The puppy gets so excited when he sees his owner that he loses control of his bladder. The puppy is not aware of or able to control this and punishment will confuse him and is not fair to him. Often dogs outgrow this problem as they mature and gain control of the muscles that control peeing. Sometimes Cocker Spaniels do not outgrow the problem. Common situations in which Cocker Spaniels get excited or fearful and urinate are: Over-affectionate and boisterous greetings when you arrive home Guests entering your home Arguments between people Scolding Loud noises Playing indoors Angry behavior In order to understand submissive urination, you must understand dominance and submissiveness. Young puppies learn this from their mothers. Averting their eyes, rolling on their backs, and urinating, are all used to express submissiveness. In situations where a dog feels intimidated, their response is to give a submissive signal to show the person or other dog that they recognize their dominance. The most important thing is to never scold or punish your dog for excitement urination; it makes the situation worse as the puppy will then start to pee out of fear! Excitement or submissive urination is part of this breed’s specific instincts. It is not a “behavior�; it is instinctual. The dog is not doing it to be disobedient or punish you! He is excited, scared, or showing submissiveness to a person or animal he perceives as dominant. Excitement urination that causes an owner to get angry can easily become submissive urination. The dog does not understand why you are angry and, in a dog’s mind, peeing is his attempt to calm and appease you. Cocker Spaniels often see other animals and people as dominant, so submissive urination occurs. Even a housetrained Cocker Spaniel may show excitement or submissive urination when greeting you or when in an exciting or scary situation. How to Prevent and Handle Excitement or Submissive Urination? The first thing to do is have your veterinarian examine your dog for possible physical problems causing this problem. Sickness and disease can make it difficult for your pet to control their peeing muscles. If physical problems are the cause, discuss options regarding your dog's situation with your veterinarian, such as surgery, drugs, and coping mechanisms. Dog owners who are too dominant and strict will reinforce submissive urinating. So, calm down and be gentle and kind with your Cocker Spaniel. Get your temper under control! Never scold or punish for excitement or submissive urination. One way to handle the problem is to make sure your Cocker Spaniel is outdoors while you are gone (in a fenced and safe area naturally) so that when you come home, if he urinates, your floors are not damaged. But this does not solve the problem. It is a good idea to do more to help the puppy stay dry. All indoor activities should take place only after taking the dog out for a pee or poop. If a dog is almost ready to pee or poop, but hasn't gotten around to doing it, any physical activity will trigger the urge to go. So, if your dog wakes up and you start playing with her, you're asking for trouble! Take a potty break first, have play time second. Play time outdoors is the best idea, especially for the puppies that have small bladders. Don’t hover over your Cocker Spaniel when you come home. She will see this as dominance and will become intimidated. Don’t look her directly in the eyes. Dogs assume that direct eye contact is a challenge. For a submissive dog, even a moment's eye contact can be intolerable. Eye contact from above heightens the reaction. Another behavior that challenges a dog is bending over or touching the dog's head, neck, or shoulders. Dominant dogs often control by placing the neck or a paw over another dog's neck or shoulders. When a human pats a dog on the head, a submissive dog sees it as a display of dominance and finds it intimidating, leading to peeing. A goal in controlling excitement urination is to prevent your dog from becoming so excited in the first place. Do this by exposing your dog to whatever excites him, over and over until it no longer excites him. If your dog gets excited and wets when you return home, ignore him; don't even look at him. Then take him outside to pee. Then leave again for a few minutes, return and ignore, leave, return and ignore. Keep doing this until you can see that your dog is actually bored with the whole thing. If excitement urination is a problem when visitors arrive, have them do this too. It may take many sessions to get your dog calmed down. When your dog stays calm and no longer gets excited when you come in, then very quietly and gently say hello. If any signs of excitement appear, repeat the coming in-and-leaving routine. A rapid sequence of heel-sits will capture your dog's attention to the game of heeling and sitting instead of urinating. Then, take him outdoors. Praise him when he pees outside; this builds self-confidence. Remember to ignore all excitement urination and never scold or get angry at your dog. As the dog matures, he can learn to sit and shake hands when visitors arrive. Use a small food treat as a reward for not peeing in the house when you arrive home or guests enter. It’s difficult for a dog to eat and pee at the same time. Take the dog outdoors quickly thereafter. If your Cocker Spaniel pees while being trained, be especially careful not to yell or scold him. Be firm and use a confident-sounding, but kind, “No� when the dog misbehaves. If your dog's problem doesn’t improve with the above suggestions, there may be other options. For example, drugs can sometimes be prescribed by a vet for excitable dogs to calm them down. But, remember, this kind of training can take weeks or months before Learn all about Dog Adoption from the unique e-book Super Dogs and Puppies. If you are searching for dog breeders, learn how to choose the right dog breeder.

Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog

5 Tips To Easy Puppy House Training
The sooner you potty train your puppy the better. You want to establish good habits from the start. And, a dog who has never gone potty in the house will never consider the house a place *to* go potty. I’ve always found the puppies we purchased from actual working farms (NOT puppy farms) were the easiest to house-train. They only ever wanted to go potty on grass or hay â€" as they had only ever gone in the barn or outside. They frequently wouldn’t even go potty in a parking lot â€" we’d need to find grassy areas on the way home for them to go potty.

Here are some house training tips that will help â€" as long as you follow them consistently:

1. Closely supervise your pup while potty training. Do not let your puppy out of your sight while he is loose in your house! Watch him as though you were babysitting a very young child who could/would get in trouble if you didn't watch them. A puppy is the same as a toddler in this respect. Keep your puppy in a crate to keep him out of trouble when you can’t attentively watch him.

If you see your puppy starting to sniff around, take him outside (or to the selected potty area) right away. If you’d like the potty area to be outside â€" try to make the area outside from the start; and if for any reason you can’t make the area outside from the start at least make the area near the door. This way when you are ready to house train to outside you can bring your pup outside whenever you see him beginning to sniff around near the door. *When you can't supervise your un-trained dog, keep him in a crate*. Be sure you have the proper size crate too. Your pup should be able to stand up and turn around â€" but no larger. If you bring your pup with you to purchase the crate, the store personnel should be able to help you select the correct size. Some people have tied their dog's leash to their waist while potty training - but you still need to *pay attention*. (I once told my daughter that her puppy potty training problem was that she wasn’t paying enough attention. She phoned one day to tell me that I must be right â€" her puppy had two accidents that day â€" both on her foot!)

2. If you find your puppy going potty in the wrong place interrupt him by saying "NO!" in a sharp tone of voice- then immediately take him to the proper place to finish. (If you don’t catch him â€" you aren’t watching closely enough.) It could help to put the paper towel you clean the mess with where you want him to potty- so that he will have the scent there. Be sure to *thoroughly* clean and de-odorize the area where he pottied in the house. Use special products made for this purpose - or he will go there again. In fact, watch him *extra closely* and/or take him to his potty place when he starts sniffing around those areas.


3. Pick a potty place that is free of distractions. No playing of any kind until the pup has gone potty. Do NOT turn potty time into play time until after he goes potty. When he does go potty give him a treat and then PLAY with him. Reward him lavishly and immediately!

4. Set a schedule. Keeping a routine will help to establish good habits. Control when your puppy eats and drinks. Feed your puppy 3 times a day when you first bring him home (or as your breeder recommends). You can decrease this to one or two times a day as he gets older. Be sure he always has fresh water to drink. Take your puppy to his potty area about once an hour â€" and always take him to his potty area within 10 minutes after he eats or drinks, wakes up, and after exercise or play. Permit absolutely no playing or distractions until he has ‘done his business’. Once he has gone potty you can begin to take him outside about once an hour for a very young puppy â€" and extend the time between ‘potty breaks’ as your pup gets older and firmly forms good house training habits. But be sure to *watch your pup carefully* whenever he isn’t either confined or in an ‘OK to potty’ area.

5. Reward your puppy as soon as he does go potty in the appropriate location. Give him a bit of a very tasty special treat. Tell him, “Yes! Good boy!â€� And play with him! Make the moment he goes potty the moment the fun and good stuff begin. Dogs love good stuff; and they will usually do whatever they need to do to get it. So all you really need to do is to make sure your dog knows what you expect of him â€" what it takes to get the ‘good stuff’.

This is a lot of work at first until the habits are formed. But really, it is the most effectiveâ€" and sometimes the only- way that it can be done. Be sure to take your puppy outside as much as possible to increase his opportunity to eliminate outdoors. If he doesn't go outside do NOT take your eyes off him when you bring him in. Most importantly: lavishly praise, reward, and play with him when he does go outside. With the use of patience, persistence, consistence, and lavish reward - you will both succeed! For more free dog training information, advice, and tips, as well as free information on dog care, puppy care, dog health & nutrition, and free canine cuisine recipes visit: http://www.e-dog-training.com.

Http://www.e-dog-training.com provides free dog training information on puppy training, house training, dog obedience & behavior training, crate training, dog trick training, and general dog training tips and advice. You’ll also find free information on dog care, puppy care, dog health & nutrition, and free canine cuisine recipes. Visit <http://www.e-dog-training.com> soon for the latest free dog training tips and advice. Copyright 2007 – Article may be reprinted and/or distributed if reference to http://www.e-dog-training.com remain intact.

Boston Terrier Club of America
Greetings and Welcome. to the official web site for the Boston Terrier Club Of America An AKC Member Club and the AKC Parent Club for the breed.

Is Your Dog Food Poisoned?
Have you ever scanned the ingredients in a commercial dog food and thought, "How can this be healthy?" Unfortunately, if your dog eats ordinary, processed dog food, your dog probably eats things that are a whole lot worse than what you might find him chewing on in your backyard each and every day. Most pet foods available in stores today are so highly processed and full of preservatives and chemicals, that they aren't any better for our dogs than potato chips are for humans. In fact they are a whole lot worse. They contain cheap ingredients, unhealthy fillers, unhealthy preservatives or poisonous chemicals. Many dog foods advertised as "preservative-free" do, in fact, contain preservatives and poisonous chemicals. Manufacturers don't have to list preservatives that they themselves did not add. Many preservatives make their way into dog food at rendering plants before the meat is even sent to the manufacturer. An analysis of several pet foods labeled "chemical free" or "all natural ingredients" found synthetic antioxidants in all samples. Although you won't see it on the label, since it is often added at the rendering plant and not by the manufacturer, ethoxyquin (EQ) is used to preserve most dry dog food. EQ is the most powerful of all preservatives and may be the most toxic. Rendering plant workers that have been exposed to it denoted side effects similar to those of Agent Orange: * A dramatic rise in liver or kidney damage * Cancerous skin lesions * Hair loss * Blindness * Leukemia * Fetal abnormalities * Chronic diarrhea. In animals, EQ has been linked to: * Immune deficiency syndrome * Spleen, stomach, and liver cancers * And a host of allergies. "The "animal" or "meat by-products" in dog food are biodegradable wastes that we don't want to eat ourselves. These are parts that Americans rarely consume as they are not intended for human consumption. These parts come from animal carcasses, and include animal heads, bones, blood, organs and feces. Their origins include catering waste (all waste food from restaurants, catering facilities, central kitchens, slaughterhouses and household kitchens). It might also contain parts from sick or dying animals that can come from slaughterhouses or euthanized animals from animal shelters. The city of Los Angeles alone, for example, sends some two hundred tons of euthanized cats and dogs to a pet food plant every month. The worst is that dog food companies don't stop with pets, your dog is also eating euthanized animals from zoos, animal control and putrid, decaying road kill. Before these animal parts and by-products are shipped to the rendering plant, the by-product is "denatured." This means that crude carbolic acid, cresylic disinfectant, or citronella, is sprayed on the product. The true horror is the drug used to kill these stray and abandoned animals, Sodium Pentobarbital, is not broken down by the manufacturing process and is still present in active form in your dog's food!! Before these poisoned animal parts can be used for poisoned dog food, they are taken to the rendering plants where they grind the meat by-products and ship the meal to dog food makers. Next, the manufacturers combine the meal with carbohydrates such as corn, thickeners like guar gum, vitamins, minerals, food coloring and preservatives. By the way, dogs are color blind so the food coloring is there to appease the human eye not the dogs. To make wet food, this glop is then heated in a pressure cooker and canned or sealed in a pouch. For dry pellets, all of these dead animals, and other ghastly materials, are then processed until the portion left over for dog food production is a brown powder, which consists of 25% fecal matter! The stuff is then heated, cut into tiny pieces, dried, and then wrapped for shipment. More expensive brands tend to have fixed formulas, while cheaper brands often change recipes to include ingredients that happen to be selling cheap at the time of processing. (They might decide to replace corn with wheat, for example, if wheat prices were especially low.) The New York State Food Laboratory reported that it found aminopterin in food from the palatability studies. Director Daniel Rice said aminopterin was a cancer drug about 50 years ago in the United States. The Environmental Protection Agency later banned use of the toxin as a rodenticide in this country. Federal law does not mandate the frequency of inspections or premarket approval of foods under FDA jurisdiction, unlike the meat and egg products under the jurisdiction of the Department of Agriculture. The FDA regulates much more of the food supply with much less money than the USDA, according to the Government Accountability Office. Dr. Stephen Sundlof, director of the FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine, said regulation of human and animal food doesn't differ substantially. The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act requires that foods be pure and wholesome and that they contain no harmful or deleterious substances, all though the act does not specify how manufacturers should ensure safety. The agency has limited resources for inspecting animal food and drugs, so it focuses inspections on manufacturers of drugs and of feed for food-producing animals, not for dog food. Usually an inspection is only conducted when there has been a complaint, such as the recent dog food poisoning of the suspected batch of wheat gluten from China. Note: * If you want to quit feeding your pooch poisoned dog food, learn to make your own healthy, homemade dog food. * Don't assume that your dog should eat what humans eat "People food" such as chocolate, grapes, raisins and onions can be difficult for your dog to digest and toxic to his system. This article may be reproduced on websites subject to credit being given to the author, and a link to the website. If you would like more information on Dog Food Secrets and how to get healthy dog food recipesClick Here! © 2007, June Parker.

June Parker was born and raised in Hawaii. She now resides in the mainland and writes articles about many topics.

LUXURY DOG GIFTS: What do you give a Dog and Wine Lover? a Whiner and Diner wine crate Dog Feeder!
“Treat your dog like a person, and he will treat you like a dog…� Not my pooch!
They are family members â€" we pamper our pets like our kids, we throw them birthday parties and arrange play-dates, and hire dog walkers for them. We dress them up for Halloween (my 85-pound black lab Bird in a bumble bee costume?) and take them along on trips.
Every dog owner I know has that “specialâ€� relationship with his pet â€" I’m sorry to say that I prefer my dog Bird over most people I know â€" and yes, I will provide him with the very best. The pet industry has taken notice: according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), we spent over $36 billion on our pets in 2006 â€" a confirmation of how much they are a part of American family life. High-end hotels (fretté linen for your four-legged friend?), cafés, restaurants and deluxe boutiques have quickly opened their doors to our canine population. From doggy spas and dog fashion shows to luxurious pet products, we seem to spoil our furry friends rotten (or is it ourselves?).
If you are a dog lover and a wine connoisseur (and I am!), these unique dog dishes will satisfy your desire to feed Fido with panache and also feed the interior decorator inside of you. Treat your classy pooch to a fine dining experience and furnish your home with a beautiful piece of doggie furniture.
Being elevated, these dog diners also promote healthy eating and drinking habits for your pet. Two doggie bowls recessed side-by-side in a stand is not a novelty, but in an authentic wooden wine crate â€" oh là là!
The feeders are hand-crafted by Whiner and Dinerâ„¢ out of recycled (did I hear “eco-chicâ€�?) wooden wine crates from European and Californian wineries. They come in different sizes to accommodate the tall and the short ones, and are outfitted with 1- or 2-quart stainless steel dog bowls (embossed with paw prints â€" or plain edges, for minimalists). Depending on the size chosen, the dog dishes can consist of either a single-bowl or a double-bowl configuration.
You can choose from a few basic colors or have the dish custom color-washed to complement your unique décor (match it to your kitchen cabinets, your floor or wherever your imagination takes you). And, of course, you wouldn’t dream of owning an upscale pet feeder unless it was hand-personalized with Fido’s name…well, they can do that too!
Now, if only they could get your favorite “Château Margaux� wine crate…they will, depending on their inventory! Voilà! However, they do not include the wine…too bad!
“Bone Appétit! A votre santé!�

Catherine Simms is an artist/ designer for<br> <a href="http://www.artalacarte1.com/"> ART A LA CARTE </a> Plaster Works with a Twist.<br> <a href="http://www.whineranddiner.net/"> WHINER AND DINER </a> Dog Dishes and Dog Beds.<br> <a href="http://www.lionheartdogscats.com/"> LIONHEART PET ADOPTIONS </a> in Pound Ridge New York.<br><br> This article may be freely republished providing its content, information and links are retained and left active.

Doggy odor in Golden Retrievers
Why does a Labrador have doggy odor?

Like any other animal, dogs will walk, run, and play in areas that might result in their gathering dirt, disease, or odor. The Labrador retriever may begin to produce odor due to a number of factors, such as oily skin, dirt accumulation, ear or anal infections, and dental/plaque buildup. Not only can odor be offensive, it can be a sign of an unhealthy retriever. If a Labrador retriever is not monitored, and the sources of doggy odor are not removed, the Labrador retriever will develop chronic physical problems.

What to do About Doggy Odor?

When a Labrador retriever begins to emit doggy odor, closely inspect the dog from head to tail. Check the retriever’s ears for debris, red skin, and odor. If an ear infection is present, it could be the result of the dog’s ears not being properly ventilated. Ear infections are common in dogs with ears that are floppy or folded over. If the dog’s ears are not properly ventilated, the inside becomes moist and warm, and infection can easily result.

Look in the dog’s mouth for plaque buildup on the teeth, and for discolored or missing teeth. In addition to the well-known “dog breath,� additional odor may be coming from the dog’s mouth as a result of food buildup and poor oral hygiene. Check the retriever’s feet; there may be a cut or infection on the dog’s foot pads. This type of injury should be immediately cleaned and bandaged. Run your fingers through the dog’s coat, and make sure you inspect all sides of the coat. There may be a concealed skin injury underneath the Labrador’s fur. Also, check for an oily or greasy texture appearing on the retriever’s coat. The coat might be producing dandruff or the skin may be flaky.

One of the most prominent areas for odor generation is the retriever’s backside. There could be anal infection, a buildup of feces on the dog’s coat, or the Labrador might be constipated or have diarrhea, both of which will produce significant odor.

As you are inspecting the retriever’s body, take detailed notes on what you see, smell, feel, and hear. These notes will become valuable when you take the dog to a veterinarian. Also, it will document signs or symptoms that you might forget to tell the veterinarian.

If your dog is exhibiting odor and is found to have an infection or illness, take proactive measures to protect your Labrador retriever. Take action and make a dog-care schedule for your Labrador.

Dogs need to be kept clean, but caution must be taken not to give the Labrador too many baths. If the dog is bathed every week, the retriever’s coat is deprived of natural oils. As a result, over- bathing a Labrador can increase odor. A dog should be bathed once a month.

Part of maintaining a clean home includes washing animal bedding, play s, and the dog’s collar. After washing the Labrador’s bedding, make sure that the bedding is completely dry before allowing the dog to sleep on it. If the bedding has been removed from the dryer or brought in from a clothes line, vacuum the bedding with a small hand vacuum; this will remove any debris that was left by the dryer.

A Labrador retriever should be monitored when it goes outside, especially if your home is in a rural and/or wooded area. The dog might be picking up odors from discarded garbage or a dead animal carcass. Odors from rotting food or meat are extremely pungent. Also, they can induce vomiting if eaten. If your Labrador is allowed to go into wooded areas or alleys, follow the dog to see if he is eating carrion or miscellaneous garbage.

When dogs have odor emitting from their teeth or gums, it can be treated with a professional brushing which can include removing plaque from the dog’s mouth. Ask the vet about dog treats that are designed to help keep teeth and gums clean. Make teeth inspection a regular part of your dog’s cleaning schedule.

When your retriever has been playing in dirt or mud, keep two or three old towels ready to clean the dog’s coat. One towel can be put in water and used to clean the dog’s coat, and the other towel can remain dry and used to dry the dog’s coat. Dogs enjoy physical attention and respond well to having their coats cleaned.

Brushing the retriever on a daily basis helps to reduce smell, remove excess fur, and stimulate new hair growth.

Finally, ask your veterinarian about changing the Labrador’s diet. Dog food that contains solid meat promotes healthy skin, teeth, gums, and stools. High-quality food is available through a veterinarian or at large-scale pet shops. When shopping at a pet store, ask the store staff for recommendations.

Animal odors can result from a number of different sources. To make sure that your Labrador retriever is free of odor, it is necessary to perform regular visual checkups. The doggy odor will be removed when the dog’s body is inspected thoroughly, cleaned regularly, and taken to the veterinarian for regular checkups.

Learn all about Dog
Adoption from the unique e-book Super Dogs and
Puppies.

If you are searching for doggy odor, learn how to choose the right causes and solutions.

Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog

dog problems
Why do Dachshunds tend to be suspicious?
Dachshunds tend to be suspicious because it is part of the Dachshunds breed’s specific instincts. Dachshunds can become suspicious when they are not socialized properly as puppies. This breed of dog needs extensive exposure to sights, sounds, and a variety of people; otherwise, their cautious nature may turn into suspiciousness, and this can lead to biting behavior in the Dachshund.
By nature, Dachshunds tend to be aloof and standoffish; they need extensive socialization because this has a significant effect on how the Dachshund puppy interacts with people and other animals throughout its life. The Dachshund puppy must start socializing from the age of seven weeks and continue to six months of age.

Equally important is adolescent socialization in the Dachshund breed. This dog’s adolescence begins from the ages of six to nine months and ends when the Dachshund pup is between one and three years old. The Dachshund’s adolescence can involve emotional changes and behavioral problems. The adolescent Dachshund will change its attitude and responses to strangers and other animals frequently.

Understanding If Your Dachshund Is Suspicious
Your Dachshund is exhibiting signs of suspiciousness when it growls, whines, barks, urinates, or runs away from unfamiliar people or animals. It is important to note that a dog that has been allowed to develop suspicious behavior will not become accustomed to unfamiliar people or animals. They will only become relaxed with the people or animals with which they live on a regular basis. Once developed, suspiciousness becomes a permanent behavior trait.

When pet owners bring a new animal into the house, they can become very protective, especially if the animal is a puppy. Young dogs are very energetic and are prone to running out of the house and out of an unfenced yard. The animal might become lost or harmed due to its inexperience. Some pet owners overprotect their puppies out of concern for the animal’s safety and their own piece of mind. The owner of a Dachshund pup might keep the dog away from unusual sights, sounds, or people. When this occurs, the Dachshund will not experience the socialization that is necessary, and permanent, suspicious behavior may result.

One of the most frequent signs of suspicious behavior in the Dachshund breed is called submissive urination. The Dachshund will urinate when it becomes excited; this can be seen when an unknown person enters the home or if the dog is touched suddenly. Submissive urination is specific to the Dachshund, and it should not be thought of as bad behavior. The Dachshund is trying to communicate to its guardian that the guardian is in control, and the Dachshund wants to please its guardian, so it acts submissively.



Submissive urination can be treated. The Dachshund must be kept from becoming quickly or unexpectedly excited. The dog can be trained through constant exposure to various stimuli that is known to excite him until the excitement subsides. For example, if the Dachshund urinates when strangers enter the home, ask one or two of these people to help train the dog. Ask them to come into the home quietly. Tell them to speak and move slowly, ignore the dog, and then sit down. Ask them to repeat this behavior several times, and monitor the Dachshund’s behavior. The dog should become less excited each time the person enters the room. Ignore the dog’s excited behavior and any urination; don’t ever become angry and scold or hit the Dachshund if it urinates in a submissive manner. After the dog is exposed to the stimulus, take him outside to urinate.

How to Control Suspiciousness in Dachshunds?
Because suspiciousness may become part of the Dachshund’s personality, a formal training program might be the first choice in controlling suspicious behavior in Dachshunds. A training program will help the Dachshund and its guardian(s) to communicate in a manner that will reduce fearful behavior in the dog. Also, a program will help the dog’s guardian know how and when to provide additional training and rewards for desired behavior. One of the major benefits of training programs is that the Dachshund will receive sustained attention; this attention can make the dog feel more secure, and the Dachshund will experience consistent situations (exposure to people and other animals) that might be uncommon at home. The Dachshund will learn how to respond to these situations in a less excited or anxious manner.

Training after a formal program has ended must be consistent and reliable. The Dachshund experiences suspiciousness, excitement, and anxiety because he does not know what to expect. When training this breed of dog, the commands should be kept to one word, and that word should be used each time during the training session. Also, rewards should be as consistent as the commands. Use the same type and size of dog treat. Verbal praise should be plentiful and the words used should be the same as well. The Dachshund will respond well to consistency and predictability. When training is presented in a uniform and reliable manner, the Dachshund will know what to expect and suspiciousness will be reduced. The dog will gradually generalize this behavior into other situations and circumstances in the home.

Nancy Richards has been a dog lover for the past 12 years. She has owned and handled dogs of different ages and have helped many fellow owners in training their dog. DogPottyTrain.com one of her sites has the aim to promote public interest in Dogs and convey by all possible means varied house training techniques for adult dogs and puppies.